Black Bulls and White Horses-AgainSaturday Sept 28 We started before sunrise at the Tour Carbonniere, a 13th Century guard tower that sits right in the marshes. It was built to protect the approaches to the town of Aigues-Mortes, which we will be visiting later in the trip. We were there for the first of six photo sessions with Cecile. This one would be a bull roundup, a real event that is done every fall to move the bulls to their winter grazing areas. The photographers rode along on a wagon that gave us good long range views and kept us out of reach of the bulls. We were at times shooting into the sun but for the most part the light was gorgeous.
The white horses are a very ancient breed, going into prehistory, and may be one of the first populations of horses to be domesticated. This means they have been selected through the centuries for intelligence and agility. You may see them described as "wild" but that is a stretch. They do live year round in the marches, many of them unshod and never ridden. But they all belong to somebody. The gardiens are never without their long stick which they use to guide, persuade, encourage, the bull. But most of the work of herding is done by the man/horse combination. The horses are extremely agile and instinctive so it's hard to know whether the rider is directing the horse or it just knows how to out guess the bull.
For the picture above I'm not as close as it looks. Thank God for telephoto lenses! After the roundup we were treated to a little demonstration of cutting a single bull from the herd. This is where horses' agility really shows. It was a profitable morning. Watching these Camargue cowboys do the work they've done for a few thousand years is what travel is all about. The pictures came out okay too. Back to the CamargueBonjour again from the Camargue, in southern France. We had a lovely and illuminating visit last year and there were so many surprising and interesting things going on we thought we should do it again. Getting there is a trek. Three plane rides and a 90 minute drive but it all went very smoothly. We arrived in the village of St. Laurent d'Aigouze about 7 PM on Sept 26th. We were, of course, exhausted, but our hosts were so welcoming and gracious we had to have a drink with them. We would be experiencing French country living, and cooking, for the next four days. Above is the symbol of the Camargue, a combination of an anchor, a heart, and the cross. This region is basically the Rhone river delta, going from just west of Marseille to Sete. It is dead flat with half of it under water in lakes or marshes. Below are Sylvie and Gerard, our hosts in their lovely back garden, holding their pets. Yes the turtle is one of the pets. They have a large family of them living in the garden. One of our primary objectives in traveling all this way was to photograph the white horses and black bulls of the Camargue. All of the bulls used in French type bullfighting (where the bull is not killed) are raised in this area and the cult of the bull dominates the region. Every town and village has a bull festival of some kind. To maximize my time I signed up for a workshop with Cecile Domens, a very accomplished photographer who lives in the Camargue. You can see her work at cecile-domens-photo.com.
Friday Sept 27th We had scheduled a cushion day before the photo sessions with Cecile, to recover from the jet lag and possibly to pursue the other major photo subject in the Camargue, flamingos! In the spring and summer there are up to 50,000 flamingos nesting in the marshes. Most of them migrate to Africa for the winter but about 5,000 stay all year. Friday morning we both managed to sleep in and got the worst of the jet lag behind us. So after lunch we set out to the Camargue Ornithological Park. The entire Camargue is a haven for wild birds but this part of it has prepared walking paths and the birds are a little more indifferent to people. Below is a juvenile, of which we only saw a few. Coming at this time of year means a lot of the most interesting behaviors, such as courtship and fighting, are not on display. But we did get a little taste of it, pictured below. One odd behavior we did see is demonstrated below. It looks like bathing. The birds sit down in the water and scrub themselves with their heads, just like scrubbing a four year old boy. Then they stand up and spread their wings to dry.
I managed to get a few of them in flight.
We would see flamingos all over the Camargue throughout the trip. I'd hoped to get a sunset shot of them but we ran out of steam. Still a little jet lagged.
Back to DublinMonday May 14, Time to be heading home and we had the whole day to get back to Dublin. One of our primary goals for this trip was to do a little family research for the Conners. Rollie's ancestral home is Castlepollard in County Westmeath, which is right on the way to Dublin. So we pulled in there to do some snooping. First we checked out the great manor house at Tullynally Castle. (love the name!) The purpose of this visit was to reconnoiter the place so that in the event we discover that Rollie actually is the rightful heir, we'll have a plan to expel the squatters. Boo was not enthused. Her take was that until 2028 Victor St is completely and totally finished he has no business taking on a project like this. This dampened our enthusiasm. We then spent about an hour at the local library talking to their resident genealogy guru and concluded there were no more Conners in this area. Darn! I was hoping we could at least get a free lunch out of them. Back on the road to Dublin we took a look at the map and saw that we would be passing near Trim Castle. It looked like a good place to check out and as it turned out it was! If the place looks vaguely familiar it might be because it has been the location for a number of movies. The most recent big movie shot here was Braveheart. The construction of the castle was started early in the Norman period by Hugh de Lacy, one of the first wave of Normans. The castle is sited alongside the River Boyne and the grounds on both sides of the river are now a park with walking trails. It is one of the few castles in Ireland that still has most of the outer wall intact and everything here is original to the Middle Ages.
Just alongside the castle was a herd of donkeys for the tourists to pet and feed.
Despite all of these side trips we still got into Dublin in time for another outing so we drove back over to Howth, where this trip started. This time we had better weather. The ferries and cruise ships were just heading out.
And this was the end of a very excellent trip to Ireland. Thank you for coming along. Stay tuned though, as I will still be posting some black & white images soon. SligoMonday May 13 Settling in at Sligo we were for the first time on this trip back on familiar turf. We were here in 2016 and 2017. With the drizzly weather continuing we at least knew where to look for bad weather photographs. This old shipwreck has been in the mouth of the harbor all these years. It doesn't look that much worse than it did seven years ago. Then we went to check out the waterfall just south of town. It was raining rather hard by then and I didn't get anything I hadn't managed to get on previous trips.
The rain was supposed to let up in the afternoon so we decided to take a chance and drive over ro Downpatrick Head in County Mayo. It is one of my favorite spots and maybe for the first time we can see it without the wind knocking us down. It worked. The rain lifted and the sea was quite calm, which made for a different kind of image than I'd ever managed to get.
The turf below looks like it does because it is growing right on bedrock. It is very spongy to walk on. We could feel the trip winding down. Next day was back to Dublin. |