Given that we couldn't be sure how many tourists might escape from that cruise ship and that we had seen a good part of Taormina already, on Tuesday May 10th we decided we should consider an alternate plan. As it happens there are a couple of very neat hilltop towns an easy drive from Taormina.
Forza d'Agro was the first one. The drive up was very scenic with a cool Norman castle to photograph. You see this same design of castles all over Sicily, southern Italy, as well as Ireland-everywhere the Normans went.
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The town of Forza d'Agro sits on a hill top with magestic views all around. The church, one of them anyway, we saw at least three, was used in the filming of "The Godfather". When Michael is married in Sicily while on the lam from the US, the exterior shots of the wedding were filmed here. I can see why Francis Coppola used this location. The church is elegant in a peasant sort of way and very old. Now that we are on the north side of Etna we will see more Norman influence than Spanish so the churches and buildings are much older.
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We had lunch at a cafe in the piazza. The picture below is this cafe's pizza oven. If you don't recognize him that's Michael Corelone on the side.
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Savoca was the other town we checked out. Of course we had to drive all the way back down to the sea and back up. How did people live this way!? I guess they liked the views.
It also has a Godfather connection and they don't mind if you know it. The same movie poster of Marlon Brando pops up all over Sicily and there's little embarrassment about the Mafia. You can take "Godfather" tours in several towns in western Sicily. So he has essentially been coopted and Disnified.
The main point of interest is the church of San Nicolo/San Lucia which was used for the interior shots of Michael's wedding. It was quite a hike up a hill in mid afternoon over the cobblestones. Thinking of Jeanne Marie's knees we opted for a ride in this very cute three wheeler. I had not been in one of these since Vietnam and I'd forgotten how loud they are. And bumpy. I think they are completely without springs.
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This little side trip was very worthwhile. Despite the Godfather promotions these are quiet, sleepy little Sicilian towns. There were only a handful of tourists and this was as close as we got to just observing people living out every day life. We particularly like watching this precocious little girl and her family as we ate lunch in Forza d'Agro. People, and kids, are pretty much the same everywhere. Well, until they get behind the wheel of a car.
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