If you've read the blog posts from our previous trips to Provence you will know how enraptured we were by the bullfights. The French style, where the bull has the advantage and is not killed, are just too too fun. The ones we saw in previous years were very much amateur shows where any local boy who felt inspired could get out there and challenge the bull. The encounters were, shall we say, interesting. Here is a review from last year. https://pkkelly.zenfolio.com/blog/2024/12/abrevado
But since those trips we've learned more about this ancient sport. One thing we learned is that in the larger towns the course camarguaise, as it is called, is much more structured. The razeteurs are all vetted, well trained, and dressed in white. So we really wanted to see how this looks when it is done more or less as designed. The large town of Arles has a school for the razeteurs and every Wed and Fri evening in the summer the students do a course camarguaise. This was our chance.
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The bullfights in Arles are held in the 2000 year old Roman amphitheater which holds about 20,000. These biweekly events draw a few thousand. So we are seeing a AAA farm club course camarguaise. And like minor league ball games here in the States, these are a great place for families to take the kids. We once again had managed to immerse ourselves amongst the locals.
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When the bullfighting started we immediately saw the difference in the skill level from the amateurs we had watched last year. These guys have done their work.
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The object is to grab a ribbon that is placed between the bull's horns and then escape over the red wall before the bull can catch up with you. The athletic ability is quite evident. After the ballet with the bull the razeteur has to outrun him to the wall, leap over it and grab the railings.
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In contrast to the amateurs we watched last year, who were tossed to and fro by the bulls, not one of these budding young professionals was touched. But after awhile, admiring their quick reflexes and their elegant form began to get a little boring. In fact, I was just about to turn to Jeanne Marie and say something like, "If only we had some half inebriated frat boys in there to liven this up a little more." And then this happened.
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The bull trotted off none the worse for wear. The razetuer headed for the men's room to change his shorts.
I included the sequence below because it shows a close up of the razetuer trying to grab the ribbon.
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And I like this one.
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Getting a true taste of the local culture, and documenting it of course, is one of our main reasons to travel. This was our third encounter with this ancient cult of southern France and we can't say we will ever see it again. But what a delicious run it has been!
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